I started paddling multi-day expeditions on the Machias River 45 years ago. In my opinion, it’s the finest river trip in Maine, arguably the eastern United States.
About 20 years ago, I began organizing spring Penobscot Paddle & Chowder Society trips on the Machias. I schedule them for late April or early May because my experience indicates that’s the most likely time frame for a quality water level and acceptable weather. Another important factor — it’s normally before the dreaded blackfliesarrive.
The formula is not foolproof. My friends and I have endured long periods of rain, a couple snowstorms, low water and an unusually early appearance of Maine’s super gnats. Those of us who descended the Machias in late April 2019 will not forget the near flood level waters. Six unplanned portages are still etched in our minds.
In early April this year, I started evaluating Machias River water levels and the Washington County weather forecast. Estimating the water level is a tricky task. For some inexplicable reason, the U. S. Geological Survey has allowed the Machias River gauge to cease operating while continuing to maintain the Old Stream gauge, a minor tributary. To forego the numerous benefits of measuring one of the largest watersheds in the region defies logic.
In recent years, I’ve kept a record of Old Stream gauge readings when descending the Machias. As a result, I have a fairly reliable although imperfect indicator of what to expect for water levels. As a general rule, I’m looking for Old Stream gauge readings of 50 cubic feet per second or more to paddle below the Airline and higher amounts above.
Based on my experience, the best weather for a spring Machias trip consists of cold nights and seasonably moderate daytime temperatures. Precipitation is unwanted. Cold nights are the arch enemy of blackflies, whereas they seem to proliferate during extended periods of warm weather.
Lately, road closures have complicated trip planning. Access to upper portions of the Machias watershed has become increasingly limited, and the road to Holmes Falls, in the middle of the river, was closed last year.
This spring, a superb weather forecast and ideal water levels arrived right on schedule, the last week of April. Three Machias River veterans enthusiastically agreed to join me. We planned to meet at the Airline Campground near Wesley and select an itinerary based on road access.
I drove to the region early to determine road options. The news wasn’t good. Roads to Holmes Falls, Cranberry and Fifth lakes and the West Branch were gated. I did enjoy a couple of quality bike rides and was able to eliminate some options under consideration. We decided to begin about a mile above Carrick Rips near the confluence with the West Branch and paddle to Machias, a four-day trip.
After dropping off shuttle vehicles, we transported two canoes and two expedition kayaks to a location next to the river about three miles downriver from First Lake. We launched under clear skies with temperatures in the 50s, perfect Machias weather.
The flatwater above Carrick Rips was interrupted by a downed tree blocking the entire river. Canoeist Rick Farnsworth waded into the cold water with a handsaw and cleared a path.
We scouted potentially treacherous Carrick Rips on the right. Our plan to start right and move hard left into a wave train to avoid a dangerous boulder at the bottom worked to perfection. The West Branch joined soon after adding substantial volume to the river.
A series of entertaining rapids followed to the Airline. I had previously scouted the challenging Airline Rapid, so we paddled in tandem down the right side and then ferried to river left where we stopped for lunch at the campground.
A few miles of flatwater interspersed with a couple of rapids brought us to complex Little Falls. After carrying gear and carefully scouting the steep pitch, we all maneuvered left with success.
The campsite at Little Falls is, in my opinion, the finest site on the river. Stopping for the night was a no brainer. Our outdoor gourmet, Rick Farnsworth, baked delicious pizza in a reflector oven for dinner.
During the cold evening, the coming days were the topic of conversation. Wigwam Rapids, Little Holmes Falls and Great Falls were some of the challenges ahead.
Ron Chase’s book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” narrates five more exciting river trips in Maine.
