Couscous, giant couscous, fregola, mograbiah, maftoul… confused? Don't be. Though they come from different countries and go by different names, they're all variations on the theme of very little (or quite little), round (or pretty much round) balls of pasta. They are happiest as the support act to soups, stews, salads or sauces, but they are also great served plainly alongside a piece of meat or fish.
The one I'd like to champion today is perhaps the least familiar of the bunch, and that's the Palestinian maftoul. It's made from sun-dried bulgur wheat, is larger than couscous and its grains are slightly uneven, because they are rolled by hand. What makes maftoul worth celebrating is that it's so easy and forgiving to cook. Unlike couscous, which can turn mushy if soaked for too long or in too much liquid, maftoul can be boiled in salted water, like other pasta, until tender but still retaining a bite (if you cook it like this, drain and dress it while it's still warm, so the flavours can sink in and settle). But it can also be cooked using the absorption method (ideally in a good stock) much as you'd cook rice. And, like couscous, it can also be steamed over stock or water, which gives a fluffier, lighter consistency.
The size of the grains – they're 2-3mm in diameter – gives maftoul a great texture, because the uneven balls roll wonderfully on the tongue, which really enhances the eating experience, even in a simple salad.
Easy to cook, interesting to eat and happy in all sorts of company, maftoul can be used in just about any dish that calls for rice or couscous. Try cooking it with a little saffron and mixing it with cooked lentils, herbs and lots of olive oil; or mix it with roasted diced butternut, medjool dates and your favourite nut. And for everyday cooking, try thickening a hearty vegetable soup with maftoul instead of using bread, potato or rice.
Admittedly, maftoul isn't that easy to find in supermarkets, so Iwon't blame anyone for using goodold couscous instead. But if you are convinced and willing to make an effort, look for it online or try a good Middle Eastern grocer.
Braised lamb with maftoul (or couscous) and chickpeas
This is a pretty substantial dish, full of wonderful meaty and sweet-spiced aromas. Save it for a Sunday lunch, as an alternative to the traditional roast. Serves four.
8 lamb chops, on the bone
2 tbsp olive oil
Salt and black pepper
3 medium onions, one peeled and quartered, two peeled and cut into 0.5cm slices
2 large carrots, peeled and cut into 3cm pieces
2 sticks celery, cut into 3cm pieces
40g parsley leaves, plus 1 tbsp extra, chopped, for garnish
2 cinnamon sticks
20 whole allspice berries
10 black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
300g maftoul or couscous
200g cooked chickpeas
150g Greek yoghurt
In a large bowl, mix the lamb chops with atablespoon of the olive oil, ateaspoon of salt and half a teaspoon of pepper, and rub everything together well. Place amedium stockpot on high heat, add the chops and sear for two minutes on each side, until golden-brown. Add the quartered onion, carrots and celery, pour in a litre and a half of cold water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat, skim the surface and add the parsley, cinnamon, allspice, peppercorns and bay leaves. Leave to simmer for an hour and a half, skimming occasionally and topping up the water if it gets low, until the lamb istender.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining oilin a medium frying pan. Add the sliced onion and cook for 10-15 minutes, stirring often, until caramelised and brown. Remove from the heat and set aside.
When the chops are soft, remove them from the stock and set aside. Strain the stock and measure out 900ml (or 700ml if using couscous instead of maftoul); reserve the carrots to serve with the lamb, if youwish. Top up with water if necessary. Return 700ml of the liquid to the pot (500ml if using couscous), bring to a boil, add the maftoul and cook on a low to medium heat, stirring often, until al dente – about 10 minutes. (If using couscous, pour it in, cover the pan, remove from the heat and set aside for five minutes.) Stir the chickpeas and cooked onion through the maftoul, add a quarter-teaspoon of salt and warm through. Remove from the heat, cover with alid and keep somewhere warm.
Just before serving, reheat the lastof the lamb stock. Add the lamb and gently stir until warmed through. Pile the warm maftoul on alarge serving platter, put the lamb chops on top, spoon over some of the hot stock and the yoghurt (you may need to loosen it up first by whisking it a little), sprinkle with the remaining parsley and serve.
Fregola and artichoke pilaf
This is an unusual side dish – hearty yet fresh – best served just warm, or even at room temperature. Use commercial frozen or jarred artichoke hearts to save yourself time and labour. Serves four.
3 globe artichokes
2 tbsp lemon juice
Salt and black pepper
2 medium onions, peeled and thinly sliced
2 tbsp olive oil
20g unsalted butter
250g fregola (use the toasted variety for this, with some pieces darker than others), rinsed well under cold water and left in a colander to drain
600ml boiling vegetable stock (or chicken, if it doesn't need to be vegetarian)
1½ tbsp red-wine vinegar
60g pitted black kalamata olives, roughly torn
60g flaked almonds, toasted
10g chopped parsley
Cut most of the stalk off the artichokes and remove the tough outer leaves by hand. Once you reach the softer leaves, cut 2cm off the top and trim the base around thestalk. Cut in half lengthways, sothat you can reach the heart and scrape it clean of hairs, and cut each half into three triangular segments.
Put the artichokes in a medium saucepan, pour over enough water to cover (around 500ml) and the lemon juice. Bring toa boil, and simmer gently for about eight minutes, until almost cooked but still firm; they will be cooked more later. Lift the artichokes from the water, drain, season with a quarter-teaspoon of salt and set aside.
Put the onion, oil and a quarter-teaspoon of salt in a large sauté pan for which you have a lid. Cook on medium-high for about 10 minutes, stirring often, until the onion is brown and caramelised. Add the butter and stir until it melts, then add the semi-cooked artichoke, fregola, stock and some black pepper. Stir once only, cover the pan and place on a low heat for about 15 minutes, until all the liquid has been absorbed and the fregola is cooked. Avoid the temptation to stir, because that will lead to a starchy dish.
Remove from the heat and leave to sit, covered, for 10 minutes. Remove the lid, add the vinegar, olives and almonds, and stir gently. Plate, sprinkle with parsley and serve.
